Wardrobes of the princess and queens have always been a desirable visual treat for women. Rich silks, brocades, intricate ornamentation, fine fabrics and luxury choice of colours have made them an exemplary reference to erstwhile royal fashion. The Manosallsa, an early 12th-century Sanskrit text composed by the South Indian king Someshvara III of the Kalyani Chalukya dynasty, mentions a list of fabrics reserved only for the royals. While, Sarla Dasa, a 15th-century poet and scholar of Odia literature mentions in his version of Mahabartha articulates Draupadi, wearing finest of Jhina or the Linen cloth to her Swayamwar highlighting the mentions of finest fabrics associated with the Royals.
With references to such detailed treasured records across literature, photographs and works by art and history enthusiasts, stylists at Angadi present to you a style guide of sartorial pieces, graceful fine fabrics and accessories off the international brands, to make way for the #princessperfect look.
Look 1: Sheer Saree with High collared shirt
Ft. Shrimant. Udyanidevi Dhairyasheelrao Deshmukh Pawar, Ranisaheb Maharaj of Surgana
Style guide: Pair a high collared crisp white shirt with Angadi Galleria’s Chequered Banarasi Kora Saree with gold Motif. The saree comes with a Red and Gold chequered blouse. Accessories it with Bvlgari’s Pendant or Chandelier earrings. Heavy panchaloha anklets with antique finish will add magic to the look. Eye makeup can steal the show and finish by prepping hair to desired style.
Drape tips: Looking at the photograph, we assume, she has draped the saree with very less amount of pleats, inbetween her legs. For a lean and midsized figure, scrunch the saree with a brooch instead of pleats on to the shoulder of the shirt over pleats. For a full coverage leave the saree open with no pleats and secure it with a brooch on the shoulder from outside.
From what seems to be modern photograph of the Ranisaheb, her posture portray her to be a confident young lady. We wonder what occasion her eyes look bejewelled with an excited future ahead.
Look 2: Sheer Saree with Opulent Jacket Blouse
Ft. Cooch Behar Royal Family Indira Raje (1892-1968, pictured as a young girl with her mother Chimnabai, princess of Baroda and Maharani of Cooch Behar.
Style Guide: The young princess in the picture donnes’ a sequined sheer saree with ruched (heavy stylised gathering) blouse. Recreate the look with Angadi’s Sequined Phulia Saree range with golden motif pallu. We have picked Amarapali’s multiple string pearl necklace. Gold heavy Bangles and Chokers can be worn for a fuller look.
The mother of the princess is wearing a sheer saree with a heavily embroidered jacket which ornated with Zardosi technique may be on a velvet or a heavy ply silk base. We chose, Angadi’s Chiffon saree with Kashmiri hand embroidered saree. The saree is colourful with sequins and is an absolute delight to an onlooker. Elsa Schiaparelli evening ensemble jacket, the military style calls for a perfect exchange over an ordinary embroidered blouse for the royal look. With high sartorial influence the look is powerful and graces all types of body curves. Kempt your hair to look flat with center partition and tied towards back.
Drape Tip: Leave the saree open with the pleat pinned with an ornate brooch. Furthermore you can experiment by pinning the pallu to your shoulder and leaving a trail of the pallu fall back your shoulder.
The young princess with her mother, is decked in fashion that seems opulent with love for details and perfect balance of grandeur and elegance sheer. Subtle hint of heavy embroidery through sheer is the key note for this look.
Look 3: Sheer Saree with Brocade ornamentation
Ft. Princess Gowramma, Coorg. Interestingly, Queen Victoria of England was the godmother of the Coorg princess.
Style Guide: This photograph shows balanced elements of the victorian style, starting from headgear a fine masterpiece of feathers and roses (very english) with the hair accessories (Indian Bridal style) and hair badge, mostly what looks made of precious stones and pearls.
Heavy chokers and neck pieces are accentuated with the waist belt to keep the pleats and pallu intact.
Angadi features white chiffon saree with Gotapathi border, with ornamentation with exquisite 3D flower motifs coming to life. The gold has the right brightness to affirm the royal choice. Our choice of blouse is a Kanjivaram deep wine coloured brocade for a contrast and bold look. A waist band from Dolce and Gabanna is our favourite accessory to complete this look. Prep your hair with a well kempt bun and roses.
Drape tip: Keep your pleats narrow to achieve good volume of flare in the front. Keep your pleat opened and secure pallu and pleats with the waist band to keep it intact.
This photograph is an epitome what could be a fashion forward styling in todays scenario. The history behind this photograph, the fact that Queen Victoria of England was the godmother of the Coorg princess. After Coorg was annexed by the British in 1834, Chikka Veerarajendra, the last Raja of Coorg, was taken by the British to Vellore in Tamil Nadu, and then to Varanasi in 1835. Chikka Veerarajendra, with two of his wives and his favorite daughter Gowramma sailed to England in 1852. He was the first Indian Raja to sail from India to England. He died in London in 1859. Queen Victoria was the godmother of princess Gowramma. The Queen was present during Gowramma’s baptism by the Archbishop of Canterbury on June 30, 1852, and the princess was given the name Victoria Gowramma.
Look 4 : Gold Gild
Ft. Her Highness Maharani Gayatri Devi
Style Guide: Angadi’s full zari Kanjivaram saree with Gold and Beige is a head turner. Subtle and sophisticated, pair it with a statement necklace piece, just like the royal. Thin gold Bangles and subtle finger rings complete the look. Key to a poised look is well groomed hair style in place. The sari’s beauty is versatile for daywear and evening occasions with an exchange of accessory from Diamonds for the day to Coloured Gems for the evening.
Drape tip: Leave the saree open with may be a single or two pleats depending on your comfort levels and occasion.
HHM Gayatri Devi is undoubtedly the most fashionable queens of the modern India. Her panache for premium Chiffons, Luxury Jewelries make her an epitome of fine grace and beauty. The queen comes across as a modern, forward lady with her unparalleled style as if to just accentuate her personality. Seen here is the queen donning a gilded saree perhaps full Zari sari. We in particular like this look of her’s which is a rare appearance in Zari in contrary to her all time favourite Chiffons.
Look 5: Luxury Sheer
Ft. Princess Karam
Style Guide: In this picture, she is seen sporting Cartier jewelry with Sheer Saree of what we today assume could be a Kora saree or a Tissue saree. To affirm to royal fineness, we choose Angadi’s Kora Saree pink and silver saree, specially to be paired with Diamond and Platinum Jewelleries. The muted gold adds influence to the gild in a sophisticated style. Subtle elegance and grace is the key to this look.
Drape Tip: For those of you looking for a right saree to match you Diamonds and Platinums, this is a must have saree. Drape it with a single pleat. Avoid pleating pallu making a fitting space for the jewels.
With references from DNA Riyadh reports, during the 1920s and 30s, some of haute couture’s most important patrons were the Indian princesses, or Maharanis, who became regular fixtures at the rarified salons of Lanvin, Molyneux and Vionnet. In addition to being fitted for day suits and flapper dresses, they would commission custom saris made from yards of luxurious French chiffon embroidered with Art Deco patterns by Lesage.
Amongst the reigning beauties of the period was Rani Sita Devi of Kapurthala, better known within European and American circles as Princess Karam. Reflecting her passion for both the East and the West, she attended couture presentations wearing fur coats over her chiffon saris; paired to dramatic effect with spectacular jewelry created for her by Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels.
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